Milk bucket, hoses and inflations
The 10 qrt stainless bucket will fit in the dishwasher for easy cleaning. The stainless steel lid, with the rubber gasket and the pulsator removed can also be placed in the dishwasher.
THIS IS WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND PASSED THE MONTHLY STATE MILK TESTING WHEN I WAS SELLING MILK.
Use:
Once the milk bucket is setup in the milking area, with the lid and hoses attached, turn the vacuum pump on, making sure that you have a good seal on the lid, sometimes you have to press down on the lid. Once the pulsator starts to “click” and the vacuum on the gauge increases, you are ready to milk, almost.
Pre-use sterilization:
You will need a bucket of hot water, 1 gallon with 1 tablespoon on bleach added. Prior to actual milking of the doe, place the inflations in the above mixture, turn the green valves on and let the “water” pull through and into the milk bucket. Once the “water” is cycled through, let the inflations pull air through to clear the water out of the lines, turn the vacuum off and release the pressure from the milk bucket, pour water back into the above container, now this can be your udder wash water. DO NOT RINSE THE MILK SYSTEM AS IT IS STERILE.
Once the milk bucket is setup in the milking area, with the lid and hoses attached, turn the vacuum pump on, making sure that you have a good seal on the lid, sometimes you have to press down on the lid. Once the pulsator starts to “click” and the vacuum on the gauge increases, you are ready to milk, almost.
Milking:
Put the doe on the stand, clean udder as desired; make sure that the udder and teat area is DRY, milk 1 or 2 squirts into a strip cup. Then take the inflations and one at a time place over the teat and turn the green valve on, repeat with the other half. Stay by the doe, you will see the milk flow through the tubes and into the bucket, once the flow decreases or stops, turn the valve on each inflation off. You may have to break the seal that the inflation has on the teat, do this by placing your finger between the teat and the inflation and gently pull the inflation off.
DO NOT PULL THE INFLATION OFF WHILE THE GREEN VALVE IS ON< ALWAYS TURN IT OFF AND BREAK THE SEAL.
DO NOT LET THE VACUUM CONTINUE ON THE DOE ONCE THE MILK FLOW HAS STOPPED, YOU WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE UDDER. STAY BY THE DOE WHILE MILKING AT ALL TIMES
Cleanup:
Once you are finished with the last doe, turn the vacuum pump off, remove the vacuum hose from the puslator to the pump; this should release the pressure to the bucket but if it does not release the pressure on the bucket by turning one of the inflations on until the air is drawn into the bucket. Remove the lid with the hoses and place the tote lid on the milk bucket. Take it in the house and process the milk as needed.
Barn cleanup:
Once the milk has been taken care of at the house; take two containers of hot water, 1 with the bleach and one just water for rinse, make sure that they will not over fill the 10 qrt milk bucket. Place the lid back on the milk bucket and turn the vacuum on, once the pressure is reestablished, place the inflations in the “rinse” bucket and turn the valves on until the water is gone. Turn the vacuum off, release the vacuum on the bucket, dump out the water. Repeat with the bleach water. Make sure that the underside of the lid is free of milk. Place the lid, bucket and hoses in a clean place until the next milking: I put them in a clean garbage bag when I leave them in the barn.
This can also be done at the house, just unhook the vacuum hose from the pump and take the bucket, lid and inflations to the house. I just run water through the inflations from the sink, rinse the lid bottom and then soak the inflations, hoses and lid in the sink with bleach water for 5 minutes. Then hang to dry over the open dishwasher, using the rack to place it all on. The bucket I wash with dish soap and rinse with water.
Maintenance:
I recommend changing the hoses and inflations out once a year, unless they do not get cleaned out regularly, them they need to be changed more often. I like my hoses to look nice so I actually change mine out twice a year. They will get cloudy with use and cleaning.
DO NOT leave bleach water in the stainless steel bucket, it will pit it.
The lid gasket should never need to be changed but can be removed for cleaning, which I recommend daily.
The pulsator can be removed from the lid for cleaning of the lid. The pulsator itself should not need any adjustment, maintenance or cleaning.
The 10 qrt stainless bucket will fit in the dishwasher for easy cleaning. The stainless steel lid, with the rubber gasket and the pulsator removed can also be placed in the dishwasher.
THIS IS WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND PASSED THE MONTHLY STATE MILK TESTING WHEN I WAS SELLING MILK.
Use:
Once the milk bucket is setup in the milking area, with the lid and hoses attached, turn the vacuum pump on, making sure that you have a good seal on the lid, sometimes you have to press down on the lid. Once the pulsator starts to “click” and the vacuum on the gauge increases, you are ready to milk, almost.
Pre-use sterilization:
You will need a bucket of hot water, 1 gallon with 1 tablespoon on bleach added. Prior to actual milking of the doe, place the inflations in the above mixture, turn the green valves on and let the “water” pull through and into the milk bucket. Once the “water” is cycled through, let the inflations pull air through to clear the water out of the lines, turn the vacuum off and release the pressure from the milk bucket, pour water back into the above container, now this can be your udder wash water. DO NOT RINSE THE MILK SYSTEM AS IT IS STERILE.
Once the milk bucket is setup in the milking area, with the lid and hoses attached, turn the vacuum pump on, making sure that you have a good seal on the lid, sometimes you have to press down on the lid. Once the pulsator starts to “click” and the vacuum on the gauge increases, you are ready to milk, almost.
Milking:
Put the doe on the stand, clean udder as desired; make sure that the udder and teat area is DRY, milk 1 or 2 squirts into a strip cup. Then take the inflations and one at a time place over the teat and turn the green valve on, repeat with the other half. Stay by the doe, you will see the milk flow through the tubes and into the bucket, once the flow decreases or stops, turn the valve on each inflation off. You may have to break the seal that the inflation has on the teat, do this by placing your finger between the teat and the inflation and gently pull the inflation off.
DO NOT PULL THE INFLATION OFF WHILE THE GREEN VALVE IS ON< ALWAYS TURN IT OFF AND BREAK THE SEAL.
DO NOT LET THE VACUUM CONTINUE ON THE DOE ONCE THE MILK FLOW HAS STOPPED, YOU WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE UDDER. STAY BY THE DOE WHILE MILKING AT ALL TIMES
Cleanup:
Once you are finished with the last doe, turn the vacuum pump off, remove the vacuum hose from the puslator to the pump; this should release the pressure to the bucket but if it does not release the pressure on the bucket by turning one of the inflations on until the air is drawn into the bucket. Remove the lid with the hoses and place the tote lid on the milk bucket. Take it in the house and process the milk as needed.
Barn cleanup:
Once the milk has been taken care of at the house; take two containers of hot water, 1 with the bleach and one just water for rinse, make sure that they will not over fill the 10 qrt milk bucket. Place the lid back on the milk bucket and turn the vacuum on, once the pressure is reestablished, place the inflations in the “rinse” bucket and turn the valves on until the water is gone. Turn the vacuum off, release the vacuum on the bucket, dump out the water. Repeat with the bleach water. Make sure that the underside of the lid is free of milk. Place the lid, bucket and hoses in a clean place until the next milking: I put them in a clean garbage bag when I leave them in the barn.
This can also be done at the house, just unhook the vacuum hose from the pump and take the bucket, lid and inflations to the house. I just run water through the inflations from the sink, rinse the lid bottom and then soak the inflations, hoses and lid in the sink with bleach water for 5 minutes. Then hang to dry over the open dishwasher, using the rack to place it all on. The bucket I wash with dish soap and rinse with water.
Maintenance:
I recommend changing the hoses and inflations out once a year, unless they do not get cleaned out regularly, them they need to be changed more often. I like my hoses to look nice so I actually change mine out twice a year. They will get cloudy with use and cleaning.
DO NOT leave bleach water in the stainless steel bucket, it will pit it.
The lid gasket should never need to be changed but can be removed for cleaning, which I recommend daily.
The pulsator can be removed from the lid for cleaning of the lid. The pulsator itself should not need any adjustment, maintenance or cleaning.
VACUUM PUMP-
THE PUMP SHOULD BE AT A HIGH LEVEL THAN THE MILK BUCKET, THIS IS RECOMMENDED BUT NOT NECESSARY.
THE SMALL AMOUNT OF “SMOKE” THAT IS VISIBLE IS VAPOR, PERFECTLY NORMAL
DO NOT LET IT RUN WITHOUT OIL
Check the “spy glass” before each use
Add small amounts at a time, DO NOT OVERFILL
If the oil is discolored- change
RE-ORDER ADDITIONAL VACUUM PUMP OIL-
NAPA AUTO PARTS-
Vacuum Pump Oil.
Part Number: TEM 209508
O’RILEY AUTO PARTS
Robinair - Vacuum Pump Oil.
Part #: 13203. UPC: 637335132030.
IT IS TEMPERMENTAL WITH THE COLD WEATHER, IF IN AN OPEN BARN, BRING IT INTO THE HOUSE
OTHERWISE, JUST LET IT RUN WITHOUT THE BUCKET UNTIL IT DECIDES TO RUN PROPERLY
BECAUSE IT DOES NOT HAVE A HOLDING TANK, THE GUAGE FLUCUATES BACK AND FORTH WITH THE PULSATION, THUS THE LACK OF A PRESSURE REGULATOR
IT YOU ARE CONCERNED ABOUT THE PRESSURE I CAN GET A PRESSURE REGULATOR ($25.00)
AS THE PUMP RUNS, IT WILL HAVE EXHAUST AND IF YOU OVER FILL IT YOU WILL HAVE A SMALL OIL PUFF OUT UNTIL IT CLEANS OUT THE UNNEED OIL
PLEASE WATCH YOUR HOSE, NO MILK OR WATER MUST BE SUCKED UP INTO THE MACHINE
I USUALLY RUN MY PUMP, WITHOUT VACUUM HOSE ATTACHED FOR A MINUTE OR SO AFTER USE TO CLEAN OUT ANY WATER VAPOR. YOU WILL HAVE WATER VAPOR IN YOU VACUUM LINE, THIS IS NORMAL, AND I JUST DRAIN THE HOSE AFTER EACH USE.
90 DAY CRAFTSMANSHIP WARRANTY ON THE VACUUM PUMP, GAUGE AND PIPE ATTACHEMENTS
THE PUMP SHOULD BE AT A HIGH LEVEL THAN THE MILK BUCKET, THIS IS RECOMMENDED BUT NOT NECESSARY.
THE SMALL AMOUNT OF “SMOKE” THAT IS VISIBLE IS VAPOR, PERFECTLY NORMAL
DO NOT LET IT RUN WITHOUT OIL
Check the “spy glass” before each use
Add small amounts at a time, DO NOT OVERFILL
If the oil is discolored- change
RE-ORDER ADDITIONAL VACUUM PUMP OIL-
NAPA AUTO PARTS-
Vacuum Pump Oil.
Part Number: TEM 209508
O’RILEY AUTO PARTS
Robinair - Vacuum Pump Oil.
Part #: 13203. UPC: 637335132030.
IT IS TEMPERMENTAL WITH THE COLD WEATHER, IF IN AN OPEN BARN, BRING IT INTO THE HOUSE
OTHERWISE, JUST LET IT RUN WITHOUT THE BUCKET UNTIL IT DECIDES TO RUN PROPERLY
BECAUSE IT DOES NOT HAVE A HOLDING TANK, THE GUAGE FLUCUATES BACK AND FORTH WITH THE PULSATION, THUS THE LACK OF A PRESSURE REGULATOR
IT YOU ARE CONCERNED ABOUT THE PRESSURE I CAN GET A PRESSURE REGULATOR ($25.00)
AS THE PUMP RUNS, IT WILL HAVE EXHAUST AND IF YOU OVER FILL IT YOU WILL HAVE A SMALL OIL PUFF OUT UNTIL IT CLEANS OUT THE UNNEED OIL
PLEASE WATCH YOUR HOSE, NO MILK OR WATER MUST BE SUCKED UP INTO THE MACHINE
I USUALLY RUN MY PUMP, WITHOUT VACUUM HOSE ATTACHED FOR A MINUTE OR SO AFTER USE TO CLEAN OUT ANY WATER VAPOR. YOU WILL HAVE WATER VAPOR IN YOU VACUUM LINE, THIS IS NORMAL, AND I JUST DRAIN THE HOSE AFTER EACH USE.
90 DAY CRAFTSMANSHIP WARRANTY ON THE VACUUM PUMP, GAUGE AND PIPE ATTACHEMENTS
Standard Vacuum pump
$300.00
$300.00
1 goat complete system
$650.00
$650.00
2 goat or cow milking system
$750.00
$750.00
Shipping
$45.00
$45.00